Forza Horizon 5 – Basic Car Tuning + Build Video Tutorial

Forza Horizon 5 – Basic Car Tuning + Build Video Tutorial 1 -
Forza Horizon 5 – Basic Car Tuning + Build Video Tutorial 1 -

A tuning guide I created from notes from watching HokiHoshi’s amazing youtube videos.

Big thanks to HokiHoshi where I learned this information from

Here are his videos of the subject where he goes more in dept but I just created this form as these are the notes/key points from his videos



Building Tips



  • Keep stock engine, only upgrade engine if pushing to another class
  • More viable to keep original drivetrain
  • If you can make power goal without turbo, do it
  • Turbo’s give higher max power but only in higher rpm
  • Supercharger give less max power but through entire rev range



  • Try to build without front aero if you can but, if you get understeer use it
  • Whenever it drops points put it on as you can tune away the downforce


Tires & Rims

  • Makes the car feel more stable on the side that is spaced
  • Ok to have just the rear spaced as it’ll feel more stable
  • Used to adjust the oversteer/understeer balance



  • Doesn’t matter much on manual w/ clutch
  • Sports transmission is usually best option as you rarely need to adjust individual gears
  • Used to adjust final PI points
  • 0 PI
  • Sport is worthless
  • Use race for race
  • Use rally for rally and any offroad that’ll involve some onroad
  • Go for off road for fully dedicated off road (Dune jumpers & Rock climbers)



  • Nice to have it, it is worth it about 90% of the time
  • Worth it to get race as it improves handling and unlocks tuning options
  • Extremely useful for fine point tuning
  • ie. if you take a B-class to A-class add 1 chassis reinforcement
  • Forza rewards min/max so go all in or not at all
  • Power builds are usually favored on online racing
  • “Adding power makes you faster on the straights, removing weight makes you faster everywhere”



  • Spend engine upgrades last
  • Intake & exhaust first
  • Oil & cooling
  • Turbo & displacement upgrades for last
  • Cams usually cost too much PI points
  • Flywheel is a great PI adjuster


Final Upgrade Tips

  • If you have made it to the end without max PI, go back and adjust little things like, Rims, tire width, Driveline, Flywheel
  • Focus your builds on first unlocking tuning options then getting right tires, transmission, suspension setup
  • If you have a lot of spare PI then go with brakes, clutch, adjustable aero
  • Spend final PI on reducing weight or focus on adding power


Tuning Tips



  • Means you do not have the required options unlocked in the upgrade menu
  • Look for the upgrades with the yellow unlock box
  • Not all cars will have the ability to make every tuning adjustment



  • Higher % Preferred
  • Go for between 50-90%
  • Higher power cars prefer higher of that range
  • Higher setting = more oversteer
  • Never set higher than acceleration setting
  • Usually go for 0%
  • Lower is more responsive but less stable
  • Higher is more stable with entering corners
  • Makes car feel more FWD or RWD
  • Set between 50-80%
  • Rally/Offroad is closer to 50%
  • Track is closer to 80%
  • 70% is great starting value for many cars



  • Sliding to “front” gives more braking to the rear tires
  • Higher Values mean quicker locking/ABS engagement
  • These settings have little effect so not a big deal to adjust



  • Very unimportant on cars below B-class
  • Eliminates understeer, makes car feel more responsive
  • More cornering grip
  • Can make car less responsive by adding understeer
  • Usually end up increasing downforce all around
  • The faster you go, the bigger affect downforce will have, if you want more grip give more downforce



  • Stock is usually pretty good
  • Usually comes too stiff
  • Should be between 50-75% of rebound stiffness
  • Race suspension defaults to 63%
  • You typically want bump towards the low end only rasing this if you notice the car bouncing/unstable
  • If your rear end keeps sliding, increase front rebound and bump or reduce rear rebound and bump



  • Set as low as possible without bottoming out


ARB (Anti-roll bars)

  • Low rear will have understeer



  • When you are track racing camber is good
  • Race suspension usually gives too much so bump it down a couple in front & rear
  • Adjust via looking at the telemetry menu (more later on)
  • 0.1-0.2 rear toe in to keep rear stable in corner
  • Higher caster adds camber while in a turn while not affecting camber on a straight
  • Keep between 4-7*



  • If you added power you’ll want to extend and go towards speed so the last line goes just past the end of the graph
  • High power RWD you may want to extend 1st & 2nd to make wheelspin less likely



  • Higher pressure feels more responsive and will loose grip quicker
  • Lower pressure less response, slower loss of grip
  • 26-35 psi for track
  • Higher front psi is preferred (about 2-3 higher in the front)


Fine Tuning Details

  • You need a place to test tune, the race track is a good pace
  • Open Telemetry with T on pc
  • On XBOX go to your setting and switch ANNA for telemetry then down on D-pad


Telemetry Tuning

  • Stiffen the suspension
  • If more than 20*F then lower the camber
  • If outside is hotter than inside, add camber
  • If outside and inside is hotter than middle add tire pressure
  • If middle is hottest part of tire lower tire pressure





  • Raise front springs / ARBs
  • Raise toe in
  • Raise differential deceleration lock
  • Raise front ARBs / spring rate
  • Raise front rebound
  • Adjust tire pressure / rear camber
  • Adjust downforce
  • Bump stiffness
  • Alignment
  • Throttle management



  • Due to damping and anti roll bars
  • Lower bump stiffness
  • Increase downforce
  • Add toe
  • Toe out all around
  • Toe in all around
  • Increase bump damping and spring stiffness
  • Lessen front camber
  • Increase caster
  • Move brake balance towards front wheels
  • Stiffening suspension to the front
  • Adjust Aero
  • Adjust final gear


Written by PickleChunks

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