A tuning guide I created from notes from watching HokiHoshi’s amazing youtube videos.
Big thanks to HokiHoshi where I learned this information from
Here are his videos of the subject where he goes more in dept but I just created this form as these are the notes/key points from his videos
Building Tips
Conversions
- Keep stock engine, only upgrade engine if pushing to another class
- More viable to keep original drivetrain
- If you can make power goal without turbo, do it
- Turbo’s give higher max power but only in higher rpm
- Supercharger give less max power but through entire rev range
Aero
- Try to build without front aero if you can but, if you get understeer use it
- Whenever it drops points put it on as you can tune away the downforce
Tires & Rims
- Makes the car feel more stable on the side that is spaced
- Ok to have just the rear spaced as it’ll feel more stable
- Used to adjust the oversteer/understeer balance
Drivetrain
- Doesn’t matter much on manual w/ clutch
- Sports transmission is usually best option as you rarely need to adjust individual gears
- Used to adjust final PI points
- 0 PI
- Sport is worthless
- Use race for race
- Use rally for rally and any offroad that’ll involve some onroad
- Go for off road for fully dedicated off road (Dune jumpers & Rock climbers)
Suspension
- Nice to have it, it is worth it about 90% of the time
- Worth it to get race as it improves handling and unlocks tuning options
- Extremely useful for fine point tuning
- ie. if you take a B-class to A-class add 1 chassis reinforcement
- Forza rewards min/max so go all in or not at all
- Power builds are usually favored on online racing
- “Adding power makes you faster on the straights, removing weight makes you faster everywhere”
Engine
- Spend engine upgrades last
- Intake & exhaust first
- Oil & cooling
- Turbo & displacement upgrades for last
- Cams usually cost too much PI points
- Flywheel is a great PI adjuster
Final Upgrade Tips
- If you have made it to the end without max PI, go back and adjust little things like, Rims, tire width, Driveline, Flywheel
- Focus your builds on first unlocking tuning options then getting right tires, transmission, suspension setup
- If you have a lot of spare PI then go with brakes, clutch, adjustable aero
- Spend final PI on reducing weight or focus on adding power
Tuning Tips
General
- Means you do not have the required options unlocked in the upgrade menu
- Look for the upgrades with the yellow unlock box
- Not all cars will have the ability to make every tuning adjustment
Differential
- Higher % Preferred
- Go for between 50-90%
- Higher power cars prefer higher of that range
- Higher setting = more oversteer
- Never set higher than acceleration setting
- Usually go for 0%
- Lower is more responsive but less stable
- Higher is more stable with entering corners
- Makes car feel more FWD or RWD
- Set between 50-80%
- Rally/Offroad is closer to 50%
- Track is closer to 80%
- 70% is great starting value for many cars
Brake
- Sliding to “front” gives more braking to the rear tires
- Higher Values mean quicker locking/ABS engagement
- These settings have little effect so not a big deal to adjust
Aero
- Very unimportant on cars below B-class
- Eliminates understeer, makes car feel more responsive
- More cornering grip
- Can make car less responsive by adding understeer
- Usually end up increasing downforce all around
- The faster you go, the bigger affect downforce will have, if you want more grip give more downforce
Damping
- Stock is usually pretty good
- Usually comes too stiff
- Should be between 50-75% of rebound stiffness
- Race suspension defaults to 63%
- You typically want bump towards the low end only rasing this if you notice the car bouncing/unstable
- If your rear end keeps sliding, increase front rebound and bump or reduce rear rebound and bump
Springs
- Set as low as possible without bottoming out
ARB (Anti-roll bars)
- Low rear will have understeer
Allignment
- When you are track racing camber is good
- Race suspension usually gives too much so bump it down a couple in front & rear
- Adjust via looking at the telemetry menu (more later on)
- 0.1-0.2 rear toe in to keep rear stable in corner
- Higher caster adds camber while in a turn while not affecting camber on a straight
- Keep between 4-7*
Gearing
- If you added power you’ll want to extend and go towards speed so the last line goes just past the end of the graph
- High power RWD you may want to extend 1st & 2nd to make wheelspin less likely
Tires
- Higher pressure feels more responsive and will loose grip quicker
- Lower pressure less response, slower loss of grip
- 26-35 psi for track
- Higher front psi is preferred (about 2-3 higher in the front)
Fine Tuning Details
- You need a place to test tune, the race track is a good pace
- Open Telemetry with T on pc
- On XBOX go to your setting and switch ANNA for telemetry then down on D-pad
Telemetry Tuning
- Stiffen the suspension
- If more than 20*F then lower the camber
- If outside is hotter than inside, add camber
- If outside and inside is hotter than middle add tire pressure
- If middle is hottest part of tire lower tire pressure
Troubleshooting
Oversteer/Understeer
- Raise front springs / ARBs
- Raise toe in
- Raise differential deceleration lock
- Raise front ARBs / spring rate
- Raise front rebound
- Adjust tire pressure / rear camber
- Adjust downforce
- Bump stiffness
- Alignment
- Throttle management
Other
- Due to damping and anti roll bars
- Lower bump stiffness
- Increase downforce
- Add toe
- Toe out all around
- Toe in all around
- Increase bump damping and spring stiffness
- Lessen front camber
- Increase caster
- Move brake balance towards front wheels
- Stiffening suspension to the front
- Adjust Aero
- Adjust final gear
I hope you enjoy the Guide we share about Forza Horizon 5 – Basic Car Tuning + Build Video Tutorial; if you think we forget to add or we should add more information, please let us know via commenting below! See you soon!
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